Devastation

This post will not contain any photos, I think everyone’s seen enough of those, and of all the video on the TV bulletins and various websites. I don’t want to add to the sense of voyeurism that sometimes accompanies pieces about this subject. Our former home in Kiotari on Rhodes, where we spent 14 years of our lives, has been completely destroyed by the fires which, as I type this, are still raging and in many parts out of control.

Every summer there are outbreaks of fire in the Greek islands and rural areas, it’s a fact of life and has been for many years. How they start is often a mystery, but also far too often the result of either human devilment, or human idiocy, a description which, come to think of it, would include ‘human devilment’ anyway. On rare occasions fires can start simply as a result of some wanton throwing of a plastic water bottle as rubbish into the environment. Most of us remember that, when we were at school, we were taught in physics about how to start a fire, sometimes experimenting with a magnifying glass and a piece of paper. Not so many people realise that a plastic water bottle, if it still has some of it contents within, can easily become a magnifying glass under the intense Greek sun, eventually igniting the tinder-dry vegetation on which it lies. Sadly, though, in the years that we spent living on Rhodes, all too often people were eventually arrested for starting fires in the bush for sheer devilment or, worse still, with the intention of clearing an area of natural beauty that’s protected under law from development, so that, once the ‘heat dies down’ as it were, yet another new hotel or retail complex can be built on land that is no longer of any interest owing to it having been laid waste by the flames.

Even further back in the mists of time, when we spent 24 years living in South Wales, much of which is also an area of outstanding natural beauty (notably the exceptionally lovely Vale of Glamorgan), there was over the years a series of fires that destroyed a number of public houses, strangely enough, all with thatched roofs. Each time a pub was burnt down, it rose again from the ashes, fully renovated but, sadly, often no longer with the formerly ‘protected’ thatched roof, which was of course very expensive to maintain. ‘Insurance’ fires were a known phenomenon back then.

When someone is stupid enough to start a fire in the climate that prevails here in Greece during the summer months, in the expectation that in some way it is bound to be controlled or limited in the area to which it may extend, they almost never bargain for the sheer devastation, misery and expense that they’re going to be responsible for. When we lived on Rhodes, the worst fire we saw was the great fire of 2008, which happened in August and was even then the worst fire for a couple of decades. That fire almost reached Kiotari and the house where we lived, and for a few days about 70% of the sky above the house was the colour of a strong cup of tea, Canadairs flew fast and low across the rooftop and burning pine needles and ash fell constantly all around us. It was the wind direction that saved us then, but not so this time. In fact, I reckon that most people who’ve lived in rural Greece for any length of time can identify the sound of one of those aircraft long before they see one, and no one wants to see one. If you do see a Canadair, you know that danger is near and that somewhere not too far away a fire is raging.

The long-term effects of large bush and forest fires are staggering to consider. The livelihoods of many folk are put at risk, many Greeks have no property insurance on homes that have been in their families for generations, the effects on wildlife are incalculable, and soil erosion is the inevitable result, as hillsides are denuded of vegetation that once retained the moisture with its stems, foliage, trunks and roots but is no longer there. Habitat is gone and species are put under ever more threat of extinction. Fires, wherever they occur, are events that completely change the history of an area, fact. It has been argued that, over a couple of decades, there can be some benefit to the landscape, as the carbon that seeps into the soil makes it more fertile. OK, I get that, but in the meantime much of the soil is washed away by the winter rains anyway. After the vast fires on Rhodes in 2008, large sleeper-like tree trunks were installed horizontally across hillsides that had once been clad in pine forest, to help stop the soil from being washed away while the environment regenerated itself, but many of these were stolen during the winter months by people with chainsaws cutting logs for their stoves and fireplaces.

Having now been lurking inside the house (OK, except for the fact that last evening we enjoyed a lovely meal beside the sea down in Ierapetra, although even at 11.00pm it was very sweaty outside) for three days owing to the current heatwave, we ‘ve not only seen hours of news coverage of the current fires on Rhodes, but also been exchanging messages with friends and acquaintances who still live there. It seems to me that this event has completely devastated a huge part of the island and Kiotari, once viewed by many townsfolk as the choice part of the island in which to have a home, has been hit the hardest. Estimates vary, but they all refer to a five figure amount of people who’ve had to be evacuated from homes, villages and hotels in the area. We’ve seen or heard about businesses that we patronised for years having simply gone, and the valley at the head which our former home used to sit, which was once lush with maquis and pine woodland, is a black charred mess as far as the eye can see. Deer used to wander past our front gate during the winter months and there were several species of mammal that lived in and around the house, all gone.

I’m no expert, but it seems to me that the recovery period from this devastation is going to run into decades. The sheer size of the area that now resembles a scene from an apocalyptic hollywood movie is difficult to take in. Extreme climate events are happening more and more frequently, of that there is no doubt, but human tomfoolery adding to the problem is hard to take, it really is. There has been little speculation so far on the TV news about how all this started, and it seems that it started some 50km away to the north from where the flames currently rage, but when the investigations begin, I really do hope that it doesn’t lead to some human devilment because, if it does, it’s hard to be charitable and not want to see a very harsh penalty dealt out to the guilty party or parties.

As I write this there are still more than half a dozen villages evacuated, awaiting their fate. Asklipio, the village where we used to collect our mail, is burning, and local volunteers are striving desperately in extreme heat to try to save what they can. I’m not going to say ‘pray for Rhodes,’ since it’s not the right thing to say. Praying isn’t much good if those who say those prayers aren’t that bothered about communicating with the Creator the rest of the time, is it? Plus, the problems in this world need to be considered on a much larger scale than this one event. Why should the Creator, if you believe that there is one, act quickly to save Rhodes, when dozens of Ukrainian cities have been laid waste, when millions of people are starving as a result of famine or warfare in other parts of the planet, when extreme weather events are causing flash floods and landslides elsewhere?

The best anyone can do is perhaps to support the island once next year’s season comes around by visiting it, in the hope that such an event as this will not occur again for many a long year. Yes, the place will look different in some parts, but the local residents will doubtless welcome you with open arms. If there are any appeals for financial or other types of aid, then contribute if it’s within your power. That’ll do a sight more good than asking for divine intervention, when that’s more likely to occur when the Creator calls ‘enough’ to man’s ongoing march to destroy this planet through negligence, ignorance or the quest for power. (I always found this verse most intriguing… Revelation 11:18).

Like thousands of other people, I feel a deep sense of shock at what we’re seeing in my former home. I never thought in a million years that the BBC News at Ten in the UK would be showing footage of the local beach where we used to swim, even of the very lane up which our home was situated, yet that’s what I saw when I tuned into that news programme from here last night. Locally, there are appeals from some to report to the police anyone seen throwing a cigarette butt out of a car window. Right now, I don’t think I’d hesitate to take down the number and report it. Years ago when we lived on Rhodes, on more than one occasion I saw glowing cigarette-ends being thrown from the window of the car in front while driving in the summer months. I don’t get these people at all. Why is it that so many seem to think that they don’t need to take care for the benefit of others?

Anyway, enough said. I just wanted to express my feelings about what is surely the worst disaster ever to strike the island of Rhodes. Already it’s reported that it is for sure the largest evacuation of humans ever undertaken in Greece, that’s how bad it is. For all that, there are large areas of the island that are untouched. Let’s just hope that they will still be able to make a living for the remainder of this summer. It does make my blood boil when I see bad reporting too. One piece on a web site I read only hours ago was entitled “Fires rage in Rhodes Town.” Talk about stupidity and poor journalism.

Thanks for reading my piece. Stay safe, but above all, be wise and show social responsibility in all that you do, eh?

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15 thoughts on “Devastation

    • Don’t be too hard on them Nadia, it’s human nature we’re talking about, not people of Greece or any other nation specifically. By and large your countrymen are open-hearted, generous and welcoming.

  1. We were in Rhodes in 2008, staying in pefkos. We were having lunch at prassonisi. The guys working in the taverna, we always go to the right as you drive in / creatures of habit! We were told we needed to get moving in our car, they had sent for the buses to pick up early too… we couldn’t get back on the south road as they were battling to keep the fire from the fuel station. We had to go all the way round on the north road then back through embonas, but we were safe. We sat on the roof of our apartment on st Tomas beach road watching, ready to go all through that night. I don’t think you could comprehend the feeling of helplessness / out of control / awe even, that it instils.
    We all need to do our bit. A few less car journeys, turn the heating down and put a jumper on (i sound like my dad) and recycle / reuse.
    Wishing everybody the very best in what is going to be a very challenging time ahead.
    Much love xxxx

  2. A well written article John, it clearly came from your heart. I sincerely hope all your friends in Rhodes are safe and as well as can be expected.

  3. John, thank you so much for texting on the Rhodes recent armagedon. Your personal emotions can be feel through all the text., that I entirely understand. This beautiful Island was the place you have lived there 14 years. You had a home there which has been destroyed by fire now. It’s heartbreaking.

    My wife and I been on Rhodes in 2017, where we met you John.

    We stayed in Jenadi at Ledras hotel these days and enjoyed a lot visiting Rhodes. Unforgetible memories from that holiday.
    Today morning I learned from internet that current resudents of Ledras hotel had been evacuated due to the fire that is spreading around.

    This is painful.

    • Hello Jerzi, I can never forget that day you came with me on the Bay-to-Bay excursion, on board the Madalena with Captain Kosma. We had some enjoyable conversations and you’re still one of the guests I remember best from my ten years working as an excursion escort. From what I’ve been told by someone who lives only metres from the Ledras, it’s all OK there now. They were evacuated from the village as a precaution, but the flames seem to have now progressed further south.

  4. John–thankyou for your sad blog. We used to drive throught the burnt detritus of the 2008 fire– even as late as 2018 it was still awful. And now I hear Malona is very close to catastrophe–one of our favourite villages. When I first heard Kiotari mentioned, I immediately thought of you. We are thinking of you all

  5. Very well written, John, it came from the heart. Actually, I have never visited Rhodes, but in all my years in Crete I have seen the same happening. In the last couple of years near Vrisses a fire took up and burned lots of pine trees, protected in Crete, but now a large house is being built there, and on and on. I don’t think people are actually starting these fires but who knows, I still see bonfires being built on building sites and I see dozens of bottles thrown from cars etc. But it always needs to be said . .

    • The word on the street is Ray, that someone has been taken into custody on Rhodes, suspected of starting the fires by arson. It’s not unheard of on Rhodes. No more info has yet emerged though.

      • Apparently the police in Rodos have arrested eight. And there is a Tweet if you can look it up about the fire pattern nearly exactly matching the fire pattern. here @TheRealTanyaRose

        Ray

  6. I wholeheartedley agree with you. It is a very dangerous situation for everyone concerned. I am proud of the People of Rhodes and Greece helping others and showing immense kindness and compassion to all. I will be visiting Rhodes next year!

  7. Sorry, my typo:
    And there is a Tweet if you can look it up about the fire pattern nearly exactly matching the wind farm proposal pattern. It is taken from a Greek site and Cpoernicus so probably not a hoax. Pine trees are protected in Greece, the only way to build there is to fire it.

    Ray

    • Interesting Ray, I’ve just turned on ERT News channel to see if there’s any more info. By sheer coincidence though, a Greek friend of ours who lives in Kalathos (where they were evacuated) has just sent us two photos, one of the devastated hillsides, and the next of a wind farm.

  8. Here are some snippets from greek newsagencies

    According to the Deputy Mayor of Rhodes Agapiotos Pallas, a farmer has admitted to authorities that the fire was caused by a spark from his harvester. Mr. Pallas noted that government officials will soon begin to document and assess the damages caused by the fire.

    At two after midnight in the Lardos area of ​​Rhodes, the residents noticed the presence of two foreigners who were traveling on a motorcycle in the area. Since they were strangers to the area, they asked them what they were doing there and they replied that they had gone to see the fire. The residents informed the police and they were taken to the police headquarters in a patrol car.
    According to information, the two foreigners do not seem to live in the area and in the first phase the police are concerned about their presence there, while a relevant investigation is being conducted.
    Today, the headlines are asking if arson is behind the latest blazes working their way across the Greek island of Rhodes. Officials have said that there are ‘early indications of arson’.
    An investigation has been launched into the blazes. Parkland does not magically combust on its own, and the Greek landscape is relatively stable in the heat.
    ‘Fires are set by human hands. Whether it is due to negligence or fraud will be seen [but] people have been summoned for statements and others will be summoned. As soon as we have complete information – because the investigation is in full swing, we will make announcements…’ said Vassilis Vathrakogiannis, speaking on behalf of the Rhodes Fire Department.

    Like you John, I want get to the bottom of this.

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