Two visits and a crisis

The old saying, as I remember, is ‘a new broom sweeps clean.’ The new ‘mayor’ of the village, Manolis (forget his surname TBH) is certainly making his presence felt. Lots of overgrown trees that had overhung the narrow walkways of the village, plus some along the roadside too, have now been heavily pruned to facilitate ease of passage. Great piles of tree clippings that were at first left beside the road have now been taken away and the place looks clean and tidy, one has to admit. Although we were aware of him over the past couple of years (we first met him at his mother Poppi’s place when he came home on his tractor one day while we were having a drink with her in her patio room) we’ve only exchanged the occasional hello, nothing more really.

That all changed this week. Since he was elected he’s swept past on his motor scooter once or twice whilst we’ve been passing the time of day with Maria, our neighbour, and on those occasions we’ve exchanged polite greetings and he’s gone on his way. The day before yesterday, however, we were graced with a personal visit. We both recall that we thought him a little brusque on earlier occasions, and wondered whether he resented us foreigners moving in. Angla’i’a is his aunty, since Poppi is her sister, and yet she’s not all that enamoured with him for some reason. Of course, to have her nephew beat her in the village election and take her place as the village ‘proedros’ can’t have been easy for her, but apparently they’ve not talked much to each other for a couple of decades. Families, eh?

Anyway, we like to speak as we find, and try not to adopt viewpoints about people based purely on the opinion of another. There we were pottering around outside the house when we became aware of a motorcycle zipping up our driveway. No one ever comes up there unless we’ve invited them, as a rule. He swept up to the turning area beside our front door, flipped his stand down and dismounted. Then he came over to us and gave us both a warm handshake. Must admit, at first we were both thinking, ‘what does he want from us then?’

I felt quite ashamed to have thought that way when he told us that he just came to check in with us and explain that he was always there for us if we had any issues needing to be addressed in the village. He’s evidently been made aware of the frequency with which Yvonne cleans up the leaves and street debris on the steep lane outside our garden. He also knew that, at our own expense, we’d bought some ready-to-use pitch and filled in a couple of potholes in our little lane a while back. It seems to have made him quite positive about us, a fact that we were grateful for. 

‘Are you sure there’s nothing you’d like me to get done, or at least look into then?’ He asked, which did prompt me to ask one question. 5 km up the road is the village of Meseleri, and they have no less that three blue dumpster bins, the ones specifically for recycling, whereas our village doesn’t even have one. Why was that, I wanted to know.

“I’m already on it,” he replied, “I’ve asked the council and they say that there are no more blue bins, but they do have some on order. When we get one I’m going to have both it and the green one (for general rubbish disposal) placed in a new ‘bay’ that we’ll have built beside the road, so that they can be parked tidily and be less likely to be blown over when it’s windy.”

Can’t say fairer than that, I suppose, always assuming that it does arrive one day. He’s already put our lane on his ‘to do’ list as regards the few potholes there as well. Things are looking up. Mind you, Angla’i’a, during her years as village mayor, accomplished a lot too, and was always down the council offices getting on their case about something or other.

Talking of Angla’i’a, it was high time we dropped in for coffee anyway, since the last time was way back last year. We’re both conscious of the fact that she probably has a lot less to do now, since she’s handed over the ‘mayoral’ reins as of February 1st to her nephew. So yesterday we strolled down there at around 11.30am, and found George outside using a blunt axe to split some kindling wood for their tzaki. As always, the kitchen door was open and Angla’i’a bade us come inside for an Elliniko. Needless to say she also placed some loukoumades and a few koulourakia on the table too. You never leave their house hungry. She has, it seems, already adjusted to not being mayor any more and seems to be just as busy as ever. Both she and George had been down with Covid a couple of weeks ago, and were laid low for five days or so. Nothing worse than a cold though, she told us. Just as well we hadn’t thought about dropping by sooner though, we thought. 

Her granddaughter ‘Gogo’ is now working as a chef in the hospital in Agios Nikolaos, which explains why we hadn’t seen her around for a while. In fact, what village news there was we were soon apprised of, while we sipped her excellent coffee. Her daughter Maria (you can never have too many Marias, eh?), Gogo’s mum, popped her head in the door to greet us too. She’s warmed immeasurably towards us of late and I was particularly touched when, a couple of weeks ago, after I’d posted a couple of photos of us two on the sea front, she’d replied to my comment, using the expression, “Γειά σας χωριανάκια να’στε καλά!” Which means, ‘Hi there villagers, all the best.’ For her to have called us ‘villagers’ is a compliment indeed, as we’ve only been in the village around four and a half years and, by usual standards, could be considered outsiders, or newcomers, for another couple of decades if we weren’t being accepted. 

Our visit drawing to close, we were given a bag of freshly laid eggs, which Angla’i’a placed on the table for us to pick up, remarking with a grin on the fact that she still wouldn’t run the risk of actually handing them to us (see this post)! She also gave us a bag of fresh oranges, which she said would be excellent ‘juicers.’ I can confirm that they were indeed too.

So, that’s the ‘two visits’ dealt with, but what about this ‘crisis’ then? Well, it’s a very long story, but it appears there’s a major crunch coming to the seafront in Ierapetra, because all of the cafés and restaurants along the waterside apparently have illegal structures out the front, in which the majority of their business is done. Many of these structures are built elaborately using expensive folding glass doors, roofs and awnings, not to mention having electricity installed and some even have bars inside them too. They’ve been there for decades, but the council in its wisdom has decided that they all have to be bulldozed, which will, with no doubt whatsoever, not only wreck the sea front for a couple of years while it’s being re-developed, but also bankrupt most of the restaurants and bars that will be affected. Tomorrow there’s a huge demonstration planned since the bulldozers are apparently poised to begin the destruction any day now. I’ll say more about this in due course. But it’s all rather unsettling, and seems rather self-destructive on the part of the Dimos. We’ll see what develops.

Above: No, it’s not me. I’m afraid I don’t feel like braving the water at this time of year, but you can see that some do. We know a few regulars who swim every day through the winter months. Good for them!

Above: You see all those structures on the right, those with tables and chairs inside and out? Well, if the Dimos has its way they’ll all be bulldozed imminently.

Above: Sadly it looks nothing in the photo, but that moon, being partly obscured by a nighttime cloud, it looked wonderful at the time when we were in the town the other evening.

Above: That little beauty is standing outside Angla’i’a’s front door, and there’s a Poinsettia beside her!

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4 thoughts on “Two visits and a crisis

  1. It seems there is a bit of a crackdown on structures close to the sea, I read recently the same appears to be happening in Elounda.

    • That’s true Peter, but, as the Mayor of Ierapetra said on the TV news, there are many such illegal structures on remote and previously unspoilt beaches, which are environmentally wrong and should be removed. However, in this case we’re talking of 1.5 km of waterfront in a town, not a rural beach. The café/restaurant owners also point out that many of them built their structures according to guidance given by the very Council that now wants them torn down. The question is, why allow 50 or so waterfront ‘pergolas’ (although most are much more elaborate than that) to go up over many years, each of which could have been challenged at the time of building and wasn’t, and then, after a few decades, decide they should all be bulldozed in one draconian sweep along what is a pretty and attractive waterfront? The latest info I have is that there has been yet another ‘stay of execution’ until after the tourist season, and then the businesses concerned have all offered to dismantle their own structures and replace them with ones that are approved by the authorities, which does sound like a much more sane thing to do. We shall see in due course, what transpires. It is worthy of note too, that if the bulldozers had indeed wrecked the entire waterfront of this beautiful seaside town, then 50 businesses would in all probability have gone to the wall, and around 350 to 400 workers would have lost their jobs, not to mention the knock-on effect for suppliers etc. IMHO it would have made a laughing stock of this country in the eyes of any potential visitors.

      • Thank you for the explanation of the issue, dealing with the spoiling of unspoilt beaches is very understandable but on established town seafronts seems massively counterproductive and the uncertainty must be hugely stressful for the business owners. Having visited Crete many times over the years your lovely blog and this issue may have fired me up to revisit the South coast and Ierapetra this year.

      • Maybe I’m slightly biased Peter, but Ierapetra seafront is pretty hard to beat for a drink or meal out either at lunchtime or in the evening. It’s especially lovely because it’s still not a place where one is surrounded by the tourist ‘hordes’ as it’s in a mainly agricultural area. I absolutely love the fact that it’s still essentially a ‘Greek’ town. Maybe I’ll see you along the front some time!

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